Joffre Group - September 2001
This bivy site above the Anniversary glacier is known as `Camp Excellent', and it is.
The Joffre Group provides several excellent mountaineering objectives. Matt Brown and I climbed Matier and Joffre September 22 - 23, 2001. We reached their summits at 9:00 am and 12:30 pm, respectively, on September 23. Conditions were excellent: clear skies except for the summit of Matier. Check out Matt's Joffre and Matier photos including a great panorama of Matier.
icy slopes on the north face of Matier
The Joffre group is located just south of highway 99, 32km east of Pemberton and 71km west of Lilloet. Peaks in the group include Matier, Joffre, Hartzel, Spetch, Slalok, Tszil, and Taylor. Two approach routes are commonly used. The Anniversary Glacier approach is from the east; park at 1250m, Keith's hut is at 1800m, good bivouac sites are at 1950m, convenient approaches to Joffre and Matier. The Matier Glacier approach is from the west via the Joffre Lakes access.

Access is about 45 minutes from Pemberton and 3 hours from Vancouver.

Matt checks that the Matier summit cairn is structurally sound.
September 22 - Drive Vancouver to Pemberton (165 km). Park at Anniversary Glacier access 12:00 pm (1250 m). Hike to Keith's Hut by 12:15 pm (1800 m). Head to bivy site by 3:00 pm (1950 m). Set camp. Eat. Sleep.

September 23 - Rise at 5:00 am. Follow talus to foot of Anniversary glacier. Climb glacier to Matier-Joffre col. Climb Matier north face snow to rock below summit and along rocky summit ridge. Summit Matier at 9:00 am (2770 m). Descend to col and to snow couloir on Joffre south face. Climb snow to third class rock scramble. Follow 3rd and 4th class line to false summit. Follow line west around to Joffre summit (2710 m) at 12:30 pm. Descend via same route to glacier and back to camp. Break camp and descend to car at 6:00 pm. Return to Vancouver via brewpub in Squamish.

The summit of Matier seemed to be the only place in cloud on this clear and sunny morning.
No permits are required for backcountry use on the Anniversary Glacier side of Joffre and Matier. Parking is free and access only requires a short drive from Highway 99. Keith's hut provides (free) convenient shelter.
water break on Joffre
Alpine Select. Kevin McLane. Elaho Publishing Corporation. 2001.

A Guide To Climbing And Hiking In Southwestern British Columbia. Bruce Fairley. Gordon Soules Book Publishers. 1986.

Joffre Lakes Provincial Park website. BC Parks.


Canada NTS 92 J/8 Duffey Lake 1:50,000.

Joffre summit, view looking north Matier as seen from the summit of Joffre descending rock on Joffre
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