Mount Wedge - August 2001
Matt, Steph, and Mark, getting in the way of the views at Wedgemount Lake. Mount Wedge rises behind.
Mount Wedge lies in the north of Garibaldi Provincial Park, just a few kilometres northeast of Whistler. At 2904 m, its summit is the highest in Garibaldi. Mark McCann, Matt Brown, Jason Clifford, and I climbed Wedge August 11 - 12, 2001. We reached the summit at 9:00 am on August 12. Conditions were exceptional: warm during the night with a clear sky allowing both stars and moonlight for a mostly headlamp-free approach. We followed the northeast arête route. Check out Matt's Wedge photos.
looking down the northeast arête
Wedge is located just south of Wedgemount Lake, near Parkhurst, Weart, Lesser Wedge and James Turner. Wedgemount Lake provides an excellent basecamp location (Lake Louise minus the video cameras, the parking lot, and the guy in lederhosen blowing into that 15 m horn). 

Access is less than 15 minutes from Whistler and 2 hours from Vancouver.

The route can be seen clearly (except for the greasy-haired obstruction) up the snowy arête.
August 11 - Drive Vancouver to Whistler (100 km). Park at Wedgemont Lake access in Garibaldi Park at 11:00 am (750 m). Hike to Wedgemount Lake at 3:30 pm (1890 m) avoiding wasp stings. Set camp. Swat flies. Swim. Eat. Sleep.

August 12 - Rise at 3:30 am. Follow talus around Wedgemount Lake to foot of the glacier. Traverse the glacier (avoiding crevasse falls) to and up the face on the left below the rocky arête. Follow the arête along rock first, then snow to the short steep face below the summit. Traverse the summit ridge avoiding the corniced edge (2904 m) at 9:00 am. Descend via same route to basecamp at 12:45 pm. Break camp and descend to car. at 4:15 pm. Return to Vancouver via brewpub in Whistler.

Mark, Jason, and Matt (hidden behind Jason) plus two unidentified climbers further down
No permits are required for backcountry use in this area of Garibaldi. Parking is free and access only requires a short drive from Highway 99.

Crevasses can be an issue in late season (no photo available). 

Steph and Mark on the summit
Alpine Select. Kevin McLane. Elaho Publishing Corporation. 2001.

A Guide To Climbing And Hiking In Southwestern British Columbia. Bruce Fairley. Gordon Soules Book Publishers. 1986.

Garibaldi Provincial Park website. BC Parks.


The Armchair glacier was dry below, but still snow-covered above. The warm temperatures made for interesting travel in the transition zone from ice to snow.
Canada NTS 92 J/2 Whistler 1:50,000.

Garibaldi. International Travel Maps. 1:100,000.

Garibaldi Provincial Park, BC Parks (pdf)

Here's another good view of the route, the mountain, the sky, and Mark's helmet. the Armchair glacier, seen from very very close In case you're wondering, to the left is a look inside an icy funnel washing hundreds of litres per minute into the interior of the glacier.
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