Edith Cavell, Jasper, Jasper National Park
from "Selected Climbing Routes of Mount Edith Cavell" by Gregory Horne Photographics
East Ridge. A highly recommended route on Cavell and one of the classics in the Rockies.
The first integral ascent was completed by J.W.A. Hickson and C. Kain in August 1924. This popular ridge can be considered the standard route.
From the parking lot at the end of the road [1] hike up the nature trail and take the left fork signed Cavell Meadows. Where this trail makes a switch back and heads into heavy forest,
leave it and continue beside a rocky moraine. Hike over rough moraine debris and climb the scree and snow slopes to the 2310m col [2] at the base of the east ridge (2 hours).
Some parties choose to bivi here, but be aware that lately the packrats are bothering climbers trying to sleep and chewing on equipment. The lower east ridge is climbed
directly (class 3 to 4), staying to the right of the couloir splitting the lower ridge. Just below the shoulder [3], a very short snow/ice slope may require cutting or crampons.
Continue along the level shoulder to the steeper and narrow upper ridge. The ridge is followed directly and involves class 4 and easy class 5 climbing on solid blocky quartzite.
From the east summit, to the main summit [4] is easy ridge walking.
YDS grade II, 5.3. UIAA IV.

The red line indicates our ascent up the east ridge and descent along the west ridge.

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