approach: Lower Victoria Glacier
ascent route: southeast ridge - YDS grade II, 4, UIAA III-, PD+
descent route: southeast ridge
elevation gain: 1700m
Mount Victoria provides the backdrop to Lake Louise in Banff National Park. Its long summit ridge forms the continental divide and defines the BC-Alberta border. Our long approach took us from the Château to the Plain of the Six Glaciers teahouse, through the Death Trap, over the Lower Victoria Glacier and a large unbridged crevasse, and finally to Abbot Pass. From here, we climbed the loose scree to the ridge which we then traversed, one foot in BC, one foot in Alberta the whole way. We required crampons, axes, and ice screws to descend the Sickle. This route was very satisfying; Victoria was our favourite climb of the trip, providing challenges in all three rock, ice, and snow.