We approached
Abbot Pass from Lake Louise. The hike to the Tea House is approximately
6km, followed by 2km across scree to the foot of the Lower Victoria Glacier.
From there, one
climbs through the "death trap" up the Victoria Glacier. The top of the
glacier requires climbing an unbridged bergschrund/crevasse.
The Lake O'Hara
approach to Abbot Pass is recommended for being shorter in time requirement
and elevation gain, on easier terrain, and safer.
from "Selected
Climbing Routes of Mount Victoria" by Gregory Horne Photographics
Southeast Ridge.
The
most popular route of either summit. By N.J. Collie, C.E. Fay, A. Micheal
& P. Sarbach in August 1897. The preferred approach is from O'Hara
to
Abbot Pass (2925m).
Take the trail along the north shore to Lake Oesa's east end, then scramble
up scree and boulders to the pass (3-4 hrs). Be alert for rockfall, often
from
descending parties.
The Abbot Pass Hut [4]
is normally used the night before the climb. Reservations
must be made with the Alpine Club of Canada. It is possible to reach the
hut
from the Lake Louise
side via the Lower Victoria Glacier and the Death Trap [3] gorge,
but not recommended.
If the Death Trap must be taken, better on descent in early morning.
From the hut follow
the ridge, two major steps on the ridge, before & after the Sickle,
are passed by moving on to the snow/ice slopes. Poor conditions can make
these slopes
avalanche prone
or very icy. The final portion of the ridge is narrow and corniced early
or very late in the season.
YDS grade II, 4.
UIAA III-.
The red line indicates
our approach across the Lower Victoria Glacier and ascent up the southeast
ridge.
Most of the Lower
Victoria Glacier is hidden from view by Mount Lefroy.
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